Looks like somebody found a new vintage camper!
Here’s a link to the new page: 1978 Alaskan Truck Camper
Dinette Cushions
We had a couple of 6” thick latex foam twin mattresses that weren’t being used and were in pretty good condition, and since I needed 39” wide cushions for the dinette benches in the 1956 Shasta, I decided to cut the ends off of the mattresses and use them as my cushion bases.
I cut the mattress fabric long enough to wrap the exposed end and slid a piece of ¼” plywood under the fabric and against the foam.
A few staples later, I was ready to start covering my cushions.
I put some thin batting over the cushions and stapled the seat covers to the plywood, too.
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Tire balancing beads
I got my tires and rims as a set by mail-order and they arrived ready to install, except that they hadn’t been balanced. The tire places that I have talked to said that they don’t balance trailer tires and that it isn’t necessary. It may not be necessary, but it couldn’t hurt, so I decided to do it myself. I had heard about Centramatic wheel balancers, but I wasn’t sure if they would fit my hub/drums, so I’m going to use ceramic beads. The beads are a little bigger than grains of sand and they pour into the tire through the valve stem. For my 15” tires, I’m using 3 ounces per tire. Here’s a link to a site that will explain everything a whole lot better than I can: http://www.innovativebalancing.com/HowItWorks.htm
This should help keep my campers from getting pounded by wobbly wheels as they roll down the highway.
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110 Volt Electrical Done
My 110 volt wiring is complete. It’s all on the interior of the trailer, not inside the walls. I did it this way so that I didn’t have to notch out the 1×2 framing, I didn’t interfere with the insulation, and I didn’t take the chance of hitting it with a nail or screw after it was inaccessible. The wiring runs are mostly inside of the cabinets behind drawers or protected by false shelves.
I cut down a shower curtain pole to run the wiring from the upper kitchen cabinets down to the lower cabinet and I used two metal surface mounted boxes with metal raceway for the wiring that I couldn’t conceal.
The circuit protection is a huge upgrade from the original ceramic fuse block (that’s the original fuse block sitting there between the outlet and the power cord).
I used a 100 amp 6 space 12 circuit Square D load center with a 30 amp main breaker and 4 – 15 amp circuits. It’s located just inside the roadside rear hatch. I can finish the interior in well lit air conditioned comfort now.
Got some glare and reflections on that picture… hey, there’s my teardrop!
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1956 Shasta painted
I finally got the outside finished! The paint has been on for about 2 weeks now and the windows are in, so all I need to do is finish on the inside. I’m going to complete the electrical first – that way I can turn on the air conditioner.
For the paint, I used Valspar Rust Armor from Lowes. It’s an enamel paint like Rustoleum, but it can be tinted, so you can choose from a lot of different colors. I primed the Shasta with Rustoleum Aluminum primer (latex). I put two coats of color on – thinned 12% with mineral spirits – and applied it with a brush and roller, sanding between coats. Total cost – about $100 for a new paint job.
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Plumbing finished
I hate working with plumbing, but this wasn’t too bad. Water goes into the left connection to the spigot and water drains out from the sink through the right connection. Both male and female hose connectors are chrome plated brass and made by Perko. They’re usually pretty pricey, but if you’re patient, you can find them on Ebay for $23 – $28. They’re a lot nicer than the stamped metal or plastic ones that they sell at Camping Mart and they should last a lifetime.
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Fridge Bling!
I wanted to bring some of the outside color that I painted the 1956 Shasta into the inside, so I decided to doll up my plain, white dorm refrigerator. With a little bit of paint, some left over aluminum trim and an old grab handle, I think I’ve done it.
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