1973 Shasta 1400


Before:
1973 Shasta 1400 day 1 rear
After:
1973 Shasta 1400
Before:
1973 Shasta 1400 original kitchen
After:
1973 Shasta 1400 new kitchen

I bought this little 1973 Shasta 1400 in March, 2011.
1973 Shasta 1400 day 1
1973 Shasta 1400 day 1 rear
1973 Shasta 1400 original kitchen
1973 Shasta 1400 original dinette
After cleaning out the inside, we started making repairs to water damaged areas. This time (unlike the Nomad) I didn’t throw anything away.
1973 Shasta 1400 kitchen rot
1973 Shasta 1400 side rot
1973 Shasta 1400 rear rot
1973 Shasta 1400 ceiling rot
The curb side of the Shasta was in pretty good condition, no major repairs required. The front window, the front road side wall, the top half of the road side wall and all of the back wall had to be re-built. The ceiling needed to be rebuilt too. I did one section at a time and got it water-tight before moving on to the next section.
1973 Shasta 1400 roof vent
Shasta 1400 skin repair
Shasta 1400 door/window repair
All doors, windows, hatches, vents, j channel, awning rail, etc were removed, repaired, re-putty taped and reinstalled with new stainless steel screws.
The kitchen cabinets needed a lot of repair and the particle board countertop was flaking away. I had to repair a lot of the face frames and the upper and lower cabinets by the entry door needed new side panels.
1973 Shasta 1400 kitchen plan
Since I was pretty sure that I wouldn’t be able to match the 1970’s paneling, I covered all the re-framed sections with luan plywood and we painted the interior. It’s a lot brighter inside than it was originally and it makes it feel roomier.
1973 Shasta 1400 new kitchen
Another thing that makes it feel bigger is I didn’t replace the fold down bunk in the rear of the camper. It made a great shelf, but it took up a lot of head room and made it difficult to get in and out of the rear bench seat.  We used iron on tape to make our curtains and stapled fabric onto ¼” plywood with new foam for our cushions.
Shasta 1400 couch

The plastic cone lamp shades were brittle and cracking, so I re-used the bases and put some new lamps that I got from a ceiling fan light kit.
1973 Shasta 1400 new light
For the 110 volt electrical, I upgraded it to 30 amp and added an extra circuit for a dedicated air conditioner/heater outlet in the rear of the camper. I replaced the shore power cord also.
1973 Shasta 1400 primed

A friend came over and sprayed the new color on.
1973 Shasta 1400 paint
1973 Shasta 1400 rear
The middle frame and glass of the rear window was gone and an ugly old A/C unit was hanging out the back, so that’s where I put the new A/C.  I built an air conditioner support that puts most of the weight of the A/C onto the bumper.
Shasta 1400 AC support
After that, I put all new running lights on, attached my modified Shasta wings, and called it done. I modeled the wings after trout (for Phyllis’s fly fishin’ sisters).
SOTF Shasta wing
A few years later, I rebuilt the suspension and restored the old rims with new baby moons.
1973 Shasta axle
Shasta1400 axle refurbished
Once everything was done, I hated to leave it out in the weather, so I built the Shasta Shed off of the woodpile.
1973 Shasta 1400 shed
Phyllis has pulled her Shasta to Tennessee, North & South Carolina, Virginia, and Georgia. It’s been a great camper.

1973 Shasta 1400 camping

Getting ready for a trip to the beach:

And a trip to the mountains:

Update 3-3-17: We decided to sell the 1973 Shasta, so today, it moved on to the upstate of South Carolina.  Here are some parting shots from the Craigslist ad.

img_0547

img_0537


Here are some of the details about our 1973 Shasta 1400:

It was built (both times) right here in Columbia, SC
1973 Shasta 1400 tag
Length bumper to ball: 14’ 0”
Height: about 8’ 0”
Empty weight: 1900lbs
Tongue Weight: 275lbs
Coupler ball size: 2”

Tires: ST 175/80R13 Load range C 1360# at 50psi
Wheels: 13”x 4 ½”, 5 lug on 4 ½”, Center hole – 2 ½”, ¾” positive offset
Wheel Studs: 13/16” bolt size, torque to 90 -95 ft.lbs

Axle: 2.39” Diameter, 4” drop, 69” back plate to back plate
Outer bearing: 4T-L44649, 1.063”
Inner bearing: 4T-L68149, 1.378”
Grease seal: 1.72” id, 2.56” od
Dust cap: 1 15/16”
Springs: 3 leaf, 25 ¼” C/L of eyes, 3 ¼” arch

Shasta 1400 camping
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16 comments on “1973 Shasta 1400

  1. Barbara Wynd, Canada says:

    Great blog! We just bought a 1973 14′ today, I call her ‘Schatzi’ and I am going to look a lot on your site for the tips etc….! Cheers! Barbara

  2. Bob says:

    Thanks, Cindy – we used a compressor and spray gun to paint the 1973 Shasta and a hotdog roller to paint the 1956 Shasta. Both were painted with an off the shelf rustoleum type of paint (thinned about 12%), and they both turned out about the same. A lot of it depends on your prep work. I also painted my Alaskan with a roller and you can’t tell – even close up – plus for $100 to $200 you can’t beat it.

  3. Cindy says:

    Hi Bob,
    We recently purchased a 1973 Shasta Loflight. We have water damage which seems contained to the front thank goodness, but still overwhelming when you don’t know what you’re doing! Wanted to thank you for sharing. I found some good info on here. Oh, how did you paint? Professional or DYI?
    Thanks,
    Cindy

  4. Bob says:

    Our 1973 Shasta had all the parts, it was just in rough shape. Try the link that I have to Vintage Trailer Supply, they might have what you’re looking for or try a mobile home supply place.

  5. Dan says:

    Where did you get parts?? I have a 74 Winged shasta and need a few of the openable windows, not the frames just 2 of the aluminum inserts.

  6. Bob says:

    Thanks! I took the door off of my camper and laid it out on our ping pong table for dissection. After taking the door handle off, I pulled the staples and screws out and removed the inner and outer aluminum. The wood frame inside was rotten, so I built a new one – making sure that it was square and would fit back into the old aluminum. Mine had a cardboard honeycomb filler between the framing, but I replaced that with foam insulation. It’s pretty easy to do and the parts to rebuild it can be purchased at any home store. Good luck, Bob

  7. Stephanie says:

    It looks great!! We have a 1973 that was in fairly great shape and have only had to replace a few things (top vent, tires, gave a paint job and replaced the back window) eventually we want to remodel the inside, but we did add a fridge that fits in the hole. My question is, you mentioned you re did the door? We replaced the screen on the screendoor looks great, but this year we noticed the main door is sticking and swelling at the bottom and needs to be repaired/replaced. Any ideas on where to start or where to get materials etc.? Obviously we can’t just run out and buy a door:) Thank you. Once our son turns 18 in a little over a year we will give it to him as it’s perfect for 2 people and will be easy for him to drive and cheaper than a hotel if he goes somewhere.

  8. Bob says:

    The axle probably isn’t the problem and unless it’s overloaded on one side, you might just need new springs. You can get new 3500#/pair springs, new shackles, shackle bolts (I like the wet bolts) and new U-bolts and plates for less than $100. If you have a camper similar to ours, than you probably have a 2.39” round axle (need that info for the U-bolts) and 25 ¼” springs. Also you should measure the distance between the spring hangers – on our 1956 Shasta, the hangers are slightly further apart on one side than the other and that makes the rear shackle angle different. I used the information from here: http://vintagetraileraxle.blogspot.com/ when I rebuilt my suspension. His blogs have been a great help to me.

  9. allen says:

    The suspension on mine is failing. One side sits about 1 1/2″ lower than the other. You mentioned you rebuilt yours. What does that entail? Someone told me I can purchase a complete new axle/suspension set for about $150, but of course I cannot find the source. Any ideas? Thanks, yours looks great.

  10. Bob says:

    Hi, My Roadmaster was built in Ocala, Florida and wasn’t associated with Shasta. I paid $500 for mine, and as it turned out, that was too much. The value really depends on the condition – if it was stored under cover most of it’s life then $1000 might be a good price. Make sure that it’s titled, too.
    Good luck, Bob

  11. Faith says:

    I have found a Road Master 1973.has all inside but back wall may need some work ,I have not seen it yet. Is the Road Master a Shasta ?? The an wants $1.000 for it what you think??

  12. Thank you for sharing! I just bought a 1973 Shasta Deluxe 19′. It’s in good shape and was garage kept for most of it’s life. The funny thing is my dad worked for Shasta as a roofer (which at Shasta meant he installed the interior ceilings and cabinets) from the late 1960s to 1974 and he likely helped build my camper since it came from the Leola, Pennsylvania factory which is where we’re from and where we still live! When my husband and I went to look at the camper we had my dad come along, which made us feel better since this is our first camper purchase and my dad knows the ins and outs of the whole trailer. The interior in my Shasta is all original and in pristine shape (the previous owners clearly had no children or pets!), so for now I’m going to keep it original and just recover the seat cushions and paint the trim of the cabinets to break up all the wood. I really loved seeing what another 1973 model looked like!

  13. Bob says:

    I got the 1973 Shasta four years ago for $300 with a title. They’re a little pricier now. You can plan on spending several thousand on material and parts to fix it up. As far as water damage goes, it seems like the more you look, the more you’ll find. Good luck with your project – they’re a lot of fun when finished.

  14. Erin says:

    We are looking at purchasing a 73 Shasta as well. It has original lights floor countertops and stove but the fridge and closet are missing as well as one of the wings. The roof vent was leaking but we are not sure of the extent of the water damage quite yet. I’m worried it might be too much of a project not having done this before but everyone has to start somewhere right? I’m trying to figure out a fair purchase price. Any advice?

  15. Bob says:

    I removed the cabinet and drawers enclosure on the left side of the closet and removed the fresh water tank on the right side – that doubled our floor space in there. Ours didn’t have a heater so we use an electric space heater. I put in a new receptacle at the rear dinette base that serves the A/C or heater – which ever we need.
    Bob

  16. johnna says:

    Great job! What did you do with the closet? We are thinking of having a built-up porta-potty in there. Did you replace the heater with another one somewhere else in the camper or are you maybe using an elec. space heater?

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